
Earlier this year my friend Mairi Gillies made an exhibition for An Lanntair that’s been stuck in my head for a while now. I wrote a song inspired by it, The Big Fire.
The exhibition was called Uaim an Òir and was inspired by an old story about a piper who goes into a cave and disappears. There are various versions of this story; the common theme is that, in Gaelic culture, caves represent a gateway to the ‘otherworld’. They were also somewhere musicians could secretly play an instrument that had been forbidden by church elders. In other words, they’re places of creativity, magic and rebellion. What’s not to like?
On a basic, instinctive level I loved Uaim an Òir. When it comes to art I’m generally much more excited about things that transform a whole space than things in frames, and this show felt like it was growing organically out of the walls. I also love caves – their look, texture and sound. In fact I’d just written a song about sea caves when I went to Mairi’s show.

If I’m honest though I also felt at an emotional distance from it. In the exhibition notes Mairi describes Uaim an Òir as “a meditation on how we are born and shaped by the landscapes we are rooted to, the places and spaces we inhabit, and the history and culture embedded in these”, from a Gaelic perspective. But I’ve always felt a bit rootless. I’m half English but repelled by most ideas of ‘Englishness’ (and, like a lot of people, disturbed by the current ‘patriotic’ revival of the English flag). I’m also half Scottish, but didn’t grow up in Scotland so don’t feel I can claim that part of my identity as my ‘roots’, especially when Scotland often seems to define itself by its difference from Englishness (ie: half of me). And Gaelic identity is a different thing from Scottish identity anyway. So I felt drawn to this exhibition in the same way that I’m drawn to Alastair McIntosh’s Soil & Soul (a book I love with which it shares some themes) but also on the outside of it.

It bothers me that this bothered me. Why should a show about Gaelic culture, by a Gaelic artist, have to pander to a non-Gael? And who wants to live in a monoculture where everyone can identify with everything anyway? I don’t, and there’s plenty of art that I love precisely because it’s a window into a world that’s unlike my own. But sometimes the small differences, the small experiences of outsider-dom, can register most strongly. To pick a random comparison, I love Rye Lane, a comedy about two Black twentysomething Londoners falling in love on a day-long caper around the city. The film is a fantastically vivid picture of a specific place and time and culture, and while I’m at a distance from it on numerous levels – I’m not Black, I’m not in my twenties, and I’ve never lived in London or the kinds of social circles the characters live in – this didn’t bother me at all. If anything I liked it all the more for that, and besides there are plenty of things in it – love, most obviously – that anyone can connect with emotionally. But for some reason my distance from Uaim an Òir does bother me.
I think I know what’s going on here. The first time I recorded an album in the Isle of Lewis I made a point of calling it Tourism. I wanted to acknowledge my outsider status and emphasise that, as an incomer, I wasn’t presuming to speak for an island and its culture. Seven years into Lewis life, though, the ‘tourist’ thing feels like a cop out. I’m a Hebridean artist now and I feel like I need to work out what that means and where I belong. And the fact is that Mairi, who didn’t grow up in Lewis either, is doing this better than me. She has embraced and explored Gaelic culture to the point where, despite being an incomer, she is increasingly regarded as a standard bearer for it. I, meanwhile, am still fumbling around, likening myself to a ‘tourist’, and feeling like I might need to do better.
Uaim an Òir was still on my mind when I wrote You Wouldn’t Want Me As Your Village Bard. The title refers to the old Gaelic tradition of village bard or village poet (bàrd-bhaile), who would – as I understand it – write in a traditional style about their community, preserving that tradition in the process. I certainly don’t feel qualified to do that, but I am the only songwriter in my village, so in that sense I am quite literally the village bard. Then again, maybe anyone with a social media account is a village bard now, representing their community in public in some way? So the song is me wondering how a specific old Gaelic tradition fits into the modern world, and what grants someone the right to speak for their community anyway. Is it a gift for storytelling, a deep understanding of the culture, the length of time you’ve lived there, or just who has the loudest voice? Maybe the real village bards are the local gossips who find power and status in knowing everyone’s business?
As a slightly solitary creature I’m nervous about writing in this way, and in two minds about whether to pursue it further, particularly given that I don’t speak Gaelic. I’ve heard it said that unless you speak Gaelic you will never fully understand Lewis and I’m sympathetic to this view (it’s true, for example, of the title of Mairi’s exhibition, a Gaelic play on words whose meaning will be completely lost on a non-Gaelic speaker). I feel on safer ground just singing about the landscape, like on The Stream, a song written in the early days of Covid-19 lockdown as I walked my dog up the hill above our village and realised that this small patch of land was mostly enough for me and that I had no desire to travel anywhere anyway (a position of incredible luck and privilege, I know, particularly back then).
I can also write about my children, who are Hebridean in a way that I may never be. I was fully formed by the time I got here but they are absorbing the culture without even thinking about it. The Kids Are All that Matters is a song about trying to keep your children safe at an increasingly frightening time in history, and about the vast gulf between the peace of a Hebridean village and a wider world of war, climate emergency, and authoritarianism. The connecting thread here is Donald Trump, the Isle of Lewis’s most infamous son. It’s very strange watching the impact he is having on the world from his old family home. My children’s friends include relatives of Trump – not that they have any contact with him – and there are ‘Shame On You, Donald John’ banners in windows across the island. In hindsight I wonder if I should have made that connection explicit in the song rather than just writing an oblique reference to ‘the mad men and their money’. Maybe that’s another song, or maybe that’s a job for a different kind of village bard.



















